Monday 20 April 2009

DENIM SHIRTS: CIGARETTE POCKET


So I promised several weeks ago that I'd post the results of my research into denim shirts here. I'd like to know the proper descriptions for the different stylings of each element, although I'm finding it hard to find references to what the different pocket shapes and yoke styles are traditionally called. Reviewing all the front pocket styles on the shirts has turned up symmetrical and non-symmetrical front pocket designs.
The symmetrical pockets can have a double mitre/peak or a single mitre, with straight diagonals on the flaps or curved (what I would call western) flaps. The single mitre is either centred, or offset to the inside - which appears to be a 1960's/1070's Wrangler favourite detail.

The bottoms of the pockets are either square cut, or diamond shaped, and the square cut bottom seems to be pre-1950's, the diamond shape more popular from the 1960's onwards, but I could be talking rubbish. The definitions for non-symmetrical pockets are easier to pinpoint, as their purpose is generally more functional. The first, which is making a comeback in chambray shirts this season, is the cigarette pocket, on the left chest as worn. It inverts the mitre, and doesn't have a flap, so the pocket itself has a peak, with a button fastening, and a square cut bottom. The other pocket, on the right chest, is simple a rectangle, sometimes also with a button fastening (rather than a snap), and both pockets are 'patched' on. The vintage plaid shirt advert is from e-workers, the chambray shirt is Urban Outfitters.

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