SKETCHBOOKS: TATTOO

SKETCHBOOKS: CONCEPT ACID WASH

The new acid washes are all about creating texture, almost like white paint and plaster have been applied to the surface of the denim, then cracked and scraped off. It can be very decorative, almost rococo. Would be interesting to see it created with a bleach print, or white pigment treatment, rather than the flatter results from the laundry.

SKETCHBOOKS: CHAINS AND RINGS

SKETCHBOOKS: BOWERY

Ramones. Suzi Quattro. Black leather. Silver studs. Blue denim. Black denim. Blue suede.

SKETCHBOOKS: BLACK LACE

SKETCHBOOKS: WIDE LEGS, OXFORD BAGS

SKETCHBOOKS: CURRENT CHECK

Checks and stripes are an abiding obsession. Check never goes away, just evolves, and it's one of my blind spots, as I never look at a Madras or a Tattersall check and think that it doesn't look right. However, these laundry bag/sports woven/large scale high contrast checks look particularly delicious. I really like the way that the printed, ombred hair looks like a check, and I love a check that's printed rather than woven.

SKETCHBOOKS: JACKSON POLLOCK

Paint splattering and mesh like mohair knits give the feeling of super creative, unravelled, on the edge garments. A very monochrome palette of white, black, navy and bleached denim. Combined with traditional woodblock flower prints.

SKETCHBOOKS: SEVENTIES

SKETCHBOOKS: MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Let's face it, lacing is one of those things that is borderline atrocious, but as a result when it's done well it looks super cool. Case in point.

SKETCHBOOKS: ANTIQUE WASHING

The PRPS dirty, stained authentic washing has been so inspirational, and at Bread & Butter this Spring there were lots of brands with their take on this wash. As a counterpoint to the serious fashion washes out there - the acid, mineral marbled textures and the bleach splattered jeans - worn washes are getting more and more antique. Picking up on the 1890's - 1920's jeans discovered in mines with sunfaded creases, dusted tints, serious staining and rust and oil patches, the 'authentic' washes are looking more heritage, and the shapes that go with them are also more heritage - baggier, shorter 7/8 lengths with longer rises and more workwear details.

SKETCHBOOKS: MILITARY GRANDAD

I dislike the generic 'military' designation for a trend; see also 'nautical' and 'safari', which is basically wheeled out every winter/summer season as applicable with a page in a magazine with some random jackets with frogging and braid. I do love the pared down 1940's mens accessories that remind me of a grandfather's dressing table though: generally cufflinks, the odd missing brass button, perhaps a picture of his father in WW1 uniform.

SKETCHBOOKS: BOWIE BLAZER

As in, the Thin White Duke. At one of the places I worked, we developed certain hero pieces with a Savile Row-trained tailor, and when I first sketched the short, boxy, fitted jacket with a satin shawl tux lapel, our tailor said he'd made a very similar jacket for David Bowie in the early 1980's. He also made David Bowie's Union Jack frock coat that he wore for the original Live Aid concert. Hence, the Bowie tux. In the sketchbooth, it's a bit of a mix between the shorter line, corset seamed fitted number and the long line scrunched sleeve one - one evolving to the other.

SKETCHBOOKS: PARED DOWN CLASSIC

Like getting into a freshly made bed with cool cool sheets. Simplicity personified. Tiny shell buttons. Thick mother of pearl buttons. Utterly classic.

SKETCHBOOKS: INDY 500

I've been a bit slack about posting things over the last few days, and it's because I've been going through my huge stack of magazine tears and bits of stuff and putting them into sketchbooks. Pictures that I've used for certain inspirations have suddenly mated with other images to create something totally new. Some themes that I always come back to are still turning up like bad pennies. So far, I've roughly gathered things into silhouettes, wash, fabric and accessories, and details, but I haven't stuck anything down yet...

I've taken pictures of some of the spreads I've collated so far, and although the pictures aren't great, I'll post them here for your delectation.

For the first one: Indy 500. Just a clutch of things I've collected over the years that I've loved, and these images have never had a home until today. Love the Jet lightening flash back pockets, my love of bandanas is ever present, flames printed on ragged tees, stars and stripes prints and panelled patchwork fabrics, little bit of a heavy metal/Indy 500 inspiration. Pretty pleased with how it's looking...

As some homework, if you're ever in the area, can I recommend Big Red on the salubrious Holloway Road in North London.