Thursday, 4 June 2009


So yesterday was Paris (naturellement), and Denim P.V. When you haven't been to a trade fair for a few months, the shock of an outdoor d.j. at 10am on a work day is as fresh as the first time. It's not, and never will be, a cool thing to go to a trade fair, so the idea of recreating an Ibiza-style 'chill out' area remains mysterious to me. And it's not 1996 anymore either. With that out of the way, I really like Denim P.V., and I wish more mills would show than do at the moment, and not just denim mills but mills that do some denim, and some other interesting wovens, like japanese double cloths & checks, and indigo knits, and a couple of interesting jersey mills & treated wovens. Not too big, not too small.

What's also amazing is you can pretty much photograph anything, which is unheard of at trade fairs generally. Although the lighting is so moody you're not sure what you're going to get. I attempted to photograph some of the ubiquitous Martelli installation and I'll post some pictures here, along with a summary of what was jumping out in terms of wash & shade trend, in a few days.

As a brief teaser: lots of PP/bleach and dirty tint to create yellowed, aged, hobo washes. Lots of repair on rips. Lots of coloured wefts, either tub-dyed or fabric overdyed, in greys, indigos, blacks, browns, and dark orange looking particularly cool. Earth tone denims (khaki, burgundy, brown). Black & waxy resin coatings. Lots of lighter blues, even though technically everyone's showing AW10/11 fabrics. Some great looking left hand twills. Classic low tension cottons/oe look yarns to create classic 3x1 lumpiness/marbling. Denser, stiffer hands on tighter constructions. Still some great lightweights around, for bottoms & shirts.

Finalement, the freebies. Thank you Tavex for my very chic bandana, it's just what I wanted.

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