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Men's trouser shape which has caught my eye. From the new Current/Elliott men's collection, their first. Plus Uniforms for the Dedicated. Vintage v. Sportswear shape, taking a little from elasticated track pants and some from the cuffed chinos of Huckleberry Finn yokel style.
I am convinced that I see this shape everywhere, but when I tried to find all the pictures, I failed, so these aren't great I'm afraid. I'll keep adding to them, and batter you into agreement.
Who knew that a bedazzler could make things look so cool. I think these are pretty old images, but they surfaced recently on le fashion and they are amazing. Much like with the hardcore hardwear stuff, it seems that no denim will be complete without some serious metal action.
Clearly you can be discreet or extreme about how you like your paint & bleach applied.
Sack Coats... Chore Coats... Could be slightly different things (don't shoot me, I wish I knew more about the inch-perfect pocket position of the 1920's Sack Coat), but I do know that they keep popping up in my peripheral vision.
Left to right:
Kapital
RRL, picture from The Selvedge Yard
Current/Elliott
I'd also recommend the replicas of railroad jackets by everyone from JC Penney & Sears to Crown & HD Lee on e-workers.
Below, images of gorgeous honeycombing on the sleeves from Repeattofade
Moving away from happy brights, faded pastels and neon street colours, overtints are going hand-in-hand with staining & splashing, and mixed in with acid wash effects for a more baroque, bohemian colour effect.
I love visible button flies, and will admit to wanting the Totem Jeans worn in the Sex & The City film. Combined with the baggy, dropped crotch silhouette, they have the slightly old-fashioned feel of 18th century breeches.
It's always lovely to see someone's working environment, or their sketchbooks, and especially their notebooks. I labour under the delusion that my notebooks are beautiful artifacts, because I staple bits of denim into them (when people from mills are nice enough to let me cut bits off their denim headers), and surreptiously sketch back pocket ideas when I'm walking around cool shops. The fact that they have about 10 to-do lists scrawled in them to every snippet of denim is something I choose to ignore.
This is a snapshot of April 77's notebook showing their new collection of high-end, red selvage Japanese denim. Refinery 29 says it's launching for AW09 at Barneys and Bergdorf's.
I'm trying to be a proper blogger, and therefore you'll get one of these denim catwalk trends a day until I run out!
I love the weird 'art' jeans that pop up occasionally, and I am always impressed at the boys who wear them. The mega outscale Levi's red pieces from a couple of years ago have led me to think of these pieces as cartoon denim. It's probably one of the defining aesthetics of Evisu, and it's kind of hip hop too I guess. It's also pretty much what Levi's Red do, and were doing before Cassette Playa/Henry Holland haute neon happened. And now Marc Jacobs AW09 has happened upon the happy, creative, baggy and bright feel, so this streetwear trend has definitely tipped over into world domination.
This new collaboration between Levi's Japan and Kaws/Original Fake picks up on some of the defining features of this, my own private genre. Strong red, white & blue colour combinations. Quirky, plasticated details. Digital art & illustration. And as you seek, so you shall find. The Cassette 'Navaho' jean from a few months ago (on the right) has a very similar feel.
AW09 catwalks highlight the most extreme looks, but it's always useful to have a summary of shades/silhouettes and fashion flashpoints that seem to gain traction.
Firstly, lots of lace around. The AW09 lace is black and stretch or chantilly. Stencilled or patched or in tights & leggings. At the very least, we'll be wearing lace with denim, if perhaps not on denim.
I can't read Japanese, but Selectism tells me that Lee are re-constructing classic cuts from their Archives. They are made and washed in Japan, and with the interest in all things classic, probably pretty good timing.
The 'lightening' of denim after the seemingly endless parade of dark denim over the past five years is such an interesting thing to try and unpick. There is a theory that holds in trend that a 'cycle' will last for 5 years, which as with all rules has examples that uphold it and are the exception to it.
We've had dark. So, in the way of things, this must change. But we can't wash it in a whiskered and faded way, because that's what they're still shipping a gazillion units a week of over at Seven For All Mankind/Macy's. Not cool. We can acid wash it and marble wash it, but it's quite a niche fashion look - it's never going to ship a gazillion units a week in Macy's. (Although the acid wash might, I saw a girl from Gossip Girl in a pair, with a pea coat - looked super cool, and it's a really cracking contrast with the preppy stuff).
Anyway, last summer (SS08) there were a few faded flares & wide legs & high rises, but the time wasn't right yet. Now we are seeing lots of different ways to style the faded, bleached denim, and on top of that, it feels discreet, soft, comforting, gentle. 'Depressionista' in the best way. Mixes beautifully with vintage lingerie style camis, zip shirts, and the 1920's/1980's shapes. Creates a great contrast with leather (dark denim and black leather - no thank you).
All these Sass and Bide cuts look right in pale denim - a sure sign the wash is working.
I have had a couple of people say to me that given the current economic times, people will want clean dark denim as it's the most versatile, can go from weekend to work easily, and looks pristine and new for longer. I don't disagree, but there's definitely room for both.
I saw Denim Demon at BBB in January, and they looked more like slinky skinnies than heritage worn denims, although some cool check shirts were in evidence. Do people in Scandinavia wear anything else?
However, this is an interesting article about their project to get authentic wear patterns to follow in the laundry by giving the jeans to Samis to wear during their work. It's an effort to both reconnect their jeans with the workwear spirit, and build some honest local heritage into their jeans in a way that isn't always open to non-American or non-Japanese brands.
However, the article is kind of long, and I'm not going to lie, I just kind of love this belt for a detailing idea.
It's like a conspiracy to make me want horrendous denim. Colour me convinced. This amazing shot from March's Vogue Paris (centre) makes the pale marble washed jeans with rips look great. I think ripped skinnies in general are looking really cool, and rips or marble wash lend a much harder edge to the uniform of skinny jeans and slouchy top or cute jacket combo that I think has a couple of seasons left in it.
Source: lefashion
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